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central aspects of Spanish cuisine before the Spaniards arrival on the
American continent. In fact, as interdisciplinary research shows, one of
the main reasons for Christopher Columbus s explorations which
eventually took him into the American continent was this European
craving for exotic spices.36 George Armelagos also shows that the
33
Xavier Domingo, La Cocina Precolombina en España, in Long (ed.), Conquista y
Comida, 17 28.
34
Xavier Domingo mentions the following products and spices that made up this
medieval flavor: la albahaca, la canela, el cardamomo, el culandro, el clavo de olor,
el comino, el tomillo, el hinojo, la galanga, el jengibe, el hisopo, el perejil, la hierba luisa,
el romero, la menta, la mostaza, la nuez moscada, el oregano, la pimienta negra y la
blanca, la ruda, el azafrán y la salvia. Ibid., 25.
35
For a further analysis of the Islamic culinary influence on Spanish cuisine, see
Antonio Riera-Melis, El Mediterráneo, Crisol de Tradiciones Alimentarias: El Legado
Islámico en la Cocina Medieval Catalana, in Massimo Montari (ed.), El Mundo en la
Cocina: Historia, Identidad, Intercambios, trans. Yolanda Daffunchio (Barcelona:
Paidós, 2003), 19 50. Riera-Melis analyses five main products that were brought to
Spain by the Arabs: sugar (from canes), rice, a variety of citrus, eggplants, and spinach.
These ingredients were later on imported into America, and also influenced the dietary
customs of the New World, from which Mexican cuisine grew. On the influence of
Islamic culinary traditions on Spanish cuisine, see also Salinas Campos, Gracias a Dios
que Comí, esp. 86 117.
36
Este gusto por las especias exóticas, uno de los motivos del viaje de Colón, se pro-
longó durante muchos años y caracterizó la cocina española del tiempo de la Casa de los
Austria. Eran sabores que costaban mucho dinero y abaratar su precio, importando
las especias por rutas más cortas y al mismo tiempo acabar con la dependencia de los
26 MAKING MEXICAN MOLLI
Europeans had an insatiable desire for spices, and this was a great
impulse for [trans-Atlantic] exploration. This craving, he argues, was
even greater than their greed for gold. 37 And they did find in America
a true paradise of gastronomic delights, particularly with products such
as chilies, chocolate, corn, tomatoes, potatoes, beans, and so forth.
America s export of its products to the Old World further influenced the
latter s cuisine and dietary customs.38
5 Subversive Molli
It is thus significant to find early stories of the creation of molli
located in the kitchen space of convents and monasteries. Of course,
these narratives often assumed a colonizing form, obliterating the entire
history of pre-Colombian cultures and belief systems, including dietary
and gastronomic indigenous traditions. From the baroque period to the
present, the narrative that most Mexicans know of molli s origin is the
one constructed during the colonial period; the earlier pre-Colombian
origin has been obliterated from people s memories and knowledge.
Yet, in a subversive manner, dietary and eating traditions from the orig-
inal inhabitants persisted. The ancestors culinary traditions stubbornly
became practices of resistance to colonization.39 So, while there is a
process of transgression and transformation within the practice of
making molli, there is also a powerful sense of continuation and deter-
mination despite subjugation. In the religious communities, encounter
comerciantes de las ciudades-republicas italianas, de los turcos y de los portugueses, entró
en línea de cuenta, sin duda, a la hora de financiar el viaje de Cristobal Colón. ( This
taste for exotic spices, which was one of the reasons for Columbus s explorations, was
prolonged for many years and became a characteristic of Spanish cuisine in the time of
the House of Austria. These were expensive spices, and lowering their price by import-
ing them via commercial short-cuts, as well as by ending the dependence on traders from
Italy, Turkey, and Portugal doubtless became an important factor at the time when the
decision was taken to finance Christopher Columbus s expedition. ) Xavier Domingo,
La Cocina Precolombina en España (my translation). Domingo s argument echoes the
main line of reasoning of Long (ed.), Conquista y Comida.
37
George Armelagos, Cultura y Contacto: El Choque de Dos Cocinas Mundiales, in
Long (ed.), Conquista y Comida, 105 29: 108; my translation from the Spanish original.
38
For an analysis and an index of food products that traveled from the American con-
tinent into the rest of the world, see Héctor Bourges Rodríguez, Alimentos Obsequio de
México al Mundo. Long (ed.), Conquista y Comida, contains a series of essays explor-
ing this aspect of native food products and their influence on world cuisine.
39
For a study of the history of Mexican resistance to colonization through food and
dietary customs, see esp. Esteva and Marielle (eds.), Sin Maíz no Hay Paíz, Pilcher, Vivan
los Tamales!, and Salinas Campos, Gracias a Dios que Comí.
MAKING MEXICAN MOLLI 27
and clash, subjugation and subversion, took their most extravagant
shape during this process of reinvention of this gastronomic hybrid.
For, in the molli, not only do a plurality of cultures and culinary tradi-
tions, spices, and food elements come together (often conflictingly so),
but gods and goddesses as well. If in pre-Colombian times molli was a
material expression of divine alimentation, in the colonial and post-
colonial periods it intensified its divinizing presence in a more eccentric
fashion. Somehow the molli managed to continue being, throughout the
centuries, a spiritual alimentation, but more stridently so, and in an
even more highly flavored, spicy manner.
During the baroque period in Mexico, most culinary inventions were [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]
